Ruku Pichinca

Ruku Pichincha

Quito, the capital of Ecuador, is a sprawling city stretching more than 30 km. I live in the north of Quito, the modern part, then there is the center of Quito (Centro Historico which is very old with cobblestone streets and white buildings, old cathedrals-very European) and the south of Quito which reminds me of slums. I could see ALL of Quito yesterday when I went up the new TeleferiQo, a gondola system that takes you up Ruku Pichincha volcano.

Yesterday, probably wasn’t the best day to do this because it was cloudy. But I still got some great views. From the top of the TeleferiQo you can hike further up to the summit of the volcano. I attempted this yesterday. The trail was great, just a bit of an incline but as I got closer and closer I was walking through thick fog. The weather began to change dramatically. I got really cold, heard thunder and then it began to hail. Luckly I’ve been hiking enough to know to always carry extra raincoat, hat and gloves. I was fine walking down in the hailstorm. But I passed other hikers who were soaking wet, running down the hills to the base. Some of the women were even in high heels! I guess yesterday wasn’t my day, but hopefully someday soon I’ll be able to summit Ruku Pichincha.

Space-Public versus Private

Living in another country makes me think about unspoken norms of the US. I am reminded of the difference between American’s concept of personal space versus Ecuadorian’s concept of space. First there is public space. These are parks, busses, markets, etc.  This is not so different from the US. What IS different are the norms around the noise in these spaces…whenever I board the bus bound for a longer trip inevitably there will be music blaring from the speakers or a bad martial arts movie dubbed in Spanish. Or a vendor will board the bus and talk for 45 minutes about a miracle plant that will cure any health illness for only 2 dollars! Or the lady selling potato chips yells loudly, “Papas, papitas a cincuenta centavos!” just as I am dozing off. So I guess that in the US, this would all be frowned upon. “Hey, have some respect, I’m trying to sleep!” But, Ecuadorians don’t see it that way.

Then there is private space-homes, public bathrooms, shops, etc. I have made several cultural snafoos involving private space. The other day, I was out for a run at Parque Carolina. I needed to use the bathroom. Normally you pay 15 cents to use a restroom, but in the park they are public (or so I thought). So, I walk into the restroom, do my business and come out. Boy did I get a talking to by the man running the place. He basically said, “Wow, girl, not even a greeting, not even a good morning, you are so rude, lacking respect, walking into MY bathroom like this.” So, now I need to remember, even if the restroom belongs to the public, I still have to say something like, “Please good sir. lend me your restroom.”

Another place that is different are stores. When you walk in, you always say good morning or good day. Then you ask permission to enter the store. Then you ask the vendor if he/she has the thing you want to buy. Window shopping is kind of frowned upon here. It is an unspoken norm that if you enter the store, you have every intention of buying something.

Homes are the ultimate private space. Now of course this is different in the city versus the countryside. In the countryside, you never ever enter someone’s home without first begging permission, sometimes excusing yourself several times. (Also, there are usually dogs that will keep you away, unless the owner holds onto them). It is understood that you are the guest. In the city, there is also the begging permission before you enter. The other day when I got my internet installed the two guys who installed it asked me several times if they could enter. Each time my response was of course, come in, you are offering me a service that I am paying for!

Ah…so much to learn and remember J

Photos from Black Sheep Inn

Transportation

Transportation

Some have asked, “So, Rachel, when are you going to buy a car?” Never, is usually my response. It’s hard to explain to an American who is used to driving everywhere, but I really have absolutely no need for my own car. When I’m in the city, I can walk to the park, fruit market, grocery store, even the futbol stadium (if I would want to go there :-). Stuff that’s not walkable is so accessible by Ecuador’s public transportation system. In Quito, I am steps from the Ecovia, a trolley system that runs along a main street. At just 25 cents, it’s a real bargain. Or I can just stick out my arm and hop on a bus that can take me anywhere I could ever want to go. If I’m feeling extravagant (or just don’t feel like battling the crowds) I can hire a private taxi…which for me still feels like a real bargain (for example, I can go for an hour and pay about $7.00) although for the average Ecuadorian, a taxi is kind of expensive. When I traveled to Quilotoa a beautiful volcanic crater lake. It costs about one dollar per hour of travel. So for me, I was able to travel on bus for about 4 bucks. Quite a deal, huh? Traveling by public bus is actually kind of fun. You pass through small hamlets and villages, get to see the inside of farming life, family life, and just everyday Ecua stuff. Great people and nature watching. I am very content to rely on my legs and public transportation. No need for a car right now J. If I ever did decide to drive, I would need to practice a lot! There are so many unspoken rules of driving in Quito that I’d need to learn. Traffic is crazy! There are too many cars in the city and everyone driving seems to be too much in a rush.

Pedestrians have zero rights. This is going to take me some getting used to! Whereas in the US, if a pedestrian is crossing the street at a crosswalk, cars stop and let you pass. Not here, no way. You RUN across the street. And don’t trust that cars will stop at traffic lights either! I’ve seen cars blast straight through red lights. Kind of scary, huh!

Yet, there must be an angel watching over Ecuas because rarely does anyone get hurt. I was thinking about this the other day as I instinctually reached for my seatbelt in the taxi. Then I remembered, Duh, Rach, you’re in Ecuador. No working seatbelts. Then I think about all the unsafe things Ecuas do, yet they live so long! Riding without helmets on motos, babies without car seats, running across busy streets, even eating unwashed veggies and fruits (gasp!)…not saying that I don’t think precautions are important, but I think the carrying around hand sanitizer culture of the US is a bit extreme…

I was in Mindo the other week, talking to a couple about how I got there and how I was getting back to Quito. They had arranged a private car to get them from Quito to Mindo. I said I went to the bus terminal and paid 2 bucks and got on the bus. They asked how I was getting home. I said well, I’ll just go up to the road and wait till a bus comes, then stick out my arm and get on. It feels weird for me to explain this because it’s so natural, but I guess to an American where everything is so regulated, standing on the side of the road, waiting for a bus to come seems a little weird too.

Quesos y Bosque Humedo

Los Quesos y El Bosque Humedo

Another day in the Andean paradise that is Black Sheep Inn…after a hearty breakfast, we headed for another beautiful hike, this time bound for a cheese co-op and then cloud forest. Hiking to the cheese factory involved a lot of hills and climbing. When we first arrived, no one was there…but then an older man came running to open the small cheese factory and give the grand tour. This cheese factory was started 32 years ago by a Swiss aid organization. They produce 4 types of cheeses, mostly selling them throughout Ecuador, but in some cases they export to Colombia, Peru and Spain. The cheese co-op buys milk from the local milk farmers and members of the community take turns working in the factory. We tried some of their sharper cheese and it was actually good! (I’ve never been impressed with the normal Ecua cheese, queso de campo. TO my palate it’s soft, bland, rubbery and liquidy). After the factory we headed up some more to the high paramo (this is above tree line and dry, dusty, windy and cold). After walking on the paramo for several miles we came upon a new eco-system, the cloud forest. Amazing that you have so many micro climates here. I didn’t quite get the full story on how a cloud forest can survive here, but it does! For those of you who don’t know, cloud forest is basically the rain forest but at higher altitude. As we entered it suddenly got humid (but remained chilly), lots of verdant moss, huge trees, orchids, bromeliads, mushrooms and these weird trees that grow together to form twisting, winding branches. We passed waterfalls, mud holes, heard birds singing, it was really magical. Suddenly, the cloud forest kind of just ended and we were back into the dry air of the Andes. Sr. Miguel, my guide explained all the medicinal plants along the way…plants for fever, colds, infections, problems with kidneys, even one for heart problems! I’ve got just one more half day here, then it’s back to reality in Quito. It’s good to know though that when I need an escape from the city I can spend a few days here at Black Sheep Inn.

Quilotoa

Day 2-Laguna Quilotoa Hike

I’m experiencing the Andean High. There has to be something about living in high altitude, clean, dry mountain air. I feel so healthy. I am sleeping so well. I feel awesome. The yoga studio was a great place to do some practices before breakfast. They have homemade muesli, milk from the cow, fresh fruit, strong coffee, homemade bread and jam.

The hike yesterday was from Laguna Quilotoa back to Chugchilan. I caught a pickup truck for an hour bumpy ride to Laguna Quilotoa. From there we gazed into this volcanic crater lake. The color is just indescribable…sort of greenish, blue depending on the color of the sky, position of the sun, etc. The lake is very significant for the indigenous people of the area. The crops grow very well in the area and the animals are strong, all because of this water. So the first part of the hike was going part way around the Laguna. It is over 12, 000 feet and windy! Then we hiked away from the lake through fields of mountain wild flowers, a sandy beach from a high mountain stream, over bridges to a canyon look out. From this point you could see the entire canyon, valley and mountain/hills. Spectacular. Then it was down, down, down into the canyon on in old Inca trail. As my guide told me, “Tu sabes que todo esta bajada hay que subir” (translation-You know, all this going down hill, we’re going to have to come back up). Yep. And up we did. The last hour or so of the hike was up up up. I think the concept of switchbacks has not arrived yet to Ecuador. It’s like point A to point B-let’s just go straight DOWN or straight UP. Well, it gets you there quickly, but definitely not easy. Finally at the end of a 4 hour hike, we arrived to the village of Chugchilan. Wonderful hike.

Let’s just say my glutes are feeling it this morning! To alleviate my soreness, the Black Sheep Inn has a resident masseuse, an indigenous woman who trained in Quito. She has a cozy little room with a fire lit. Andean flutes are playing in the background. So even though the air outside is chilly you are nice and toasty. I was very impressed with her massage, it felt great! It’s interesting that she, as an indigenous woman is a masseuse. The fact that she touches, manipulates, kneads other people’s bodies (men and women) and heals them though touch has to be very empowering for her as a woman in a culture where usually women who touch men are looked down upon. (you get what I’m saying…)

The fun part of traveling is meeting other travelers. I’ve met John and Gina, a couple from Southern California, taking it easy in Ecuador. Yesterday was a group of 20 high schoolers doing three weeks in Ecuador combining service and learning (they were loud and kind of annoying, so I’m kind of glad our time only coincided by one night). Other solo travelers hiking around…

As I’ve written, dinners are family style, everyone seated around a big table, sharing stories of the day’s adventures. Last night was cream of cauliflower soup (straight from the garden), four cheese pasta (with cheeses from the local cheese factory), marinated beat salad and homemade oat bread-all using local ingredients. Que delicioso!

Today I’ll be hiking up to the cheese co-op and then up further into the cloud forest. More pics and stories to follow!

Black Sheep Inn

Black Sheep Inn

So someone asked the question, “Why Ecuador?” Places like The Black Sheep Inn are the answer. I can live with all the modern conveniences I need or want in Quito. However, when I want to escape for some real hiking, nature or just to breathe, I can hop on the bus and travel to places like Chugchilan, in the province of Cotopaxi (about 6 hours by bus from Quito) I’m staying at this wonderful eco-lodge, The Black Sheep Inn (www.blacksheepinn.com), nestled in an Andean indigenous community. This is community tourism/sustainable development at it’s best. Now, I’m not paying just a few bucks to be here. It’s quite expensive, but worth it in every way. This place has won numerous awards from travel magazines, vegetarian magazines, eco places, etc. For example, National Geographic named them Top 50 Eco lodge, Delta SKY magazine named them top 10 Eco-Resort, Outside Magazine, Top 10 Eco-Lodge in the world, etc. Now awards are one thing…but what makes this place so unique and special?

The Layout

OK, so you’ve arrived here from the city. You walk up a steep (and I mean STEEP) driveway to your main lodge, the Black Sheep Inn. You’ll need to catch your breath (we are high here-over 10, 500 feet). They have a wood fire going (it gets cold up here at altitude). You are offered fresh brewed coffee, tea, water and a map of all the hiking trails in the area. I was shown to my room-with a wood burning stove, lots of blankets on the bed. There’s several rooms like mine. Also a yoga studio that overlooks this majestic panoramic view of the Andean mountains and hills. To describe these hills without pictures…it’s as if the hills were draped with a patchwork quilt made up of different textures and colors-greens, yellows, browns even reds. The studio is all windows with hammocks, yoga mats, a station for tea and coffee. The perfect place for relaxation. The main lodge is where all the meals are taken. Meals are all delicious, vegetarian cooked by local women that the lodge employs. (Breakfast was fresh fruit with muesli and milk (straight from the cow), lunch was packed cheese sandwiches (cheese from a local cheese co-op, dinner was one night mushroom Shepard’s pie and fresh veggies from the garden).

The Journey

As the owners say, getting to the tiny hamlet of Chugchilan and the Black Sheep Inn is half the fun! I think since the inception of the Inn, the roads have improved (another example of development for the better for this town, as a result of the inn). So, I had to travel to the provincial capital, Latacunga from Quito (about 2 hours). Then catch another bus from Latacunga to Chugchilan. This bus goes on winding roads, some paved, some bumpy, some dirt, some dusty. The road cuts right through the steep mountains and hills. The views really were breathtaking. Lots of little patches on the mountains with crops like potatoes, fava beans, wheat, quinoa, barley. Makes for a beautiful trip!

The Owners and the Community

Michelle and Andres are an American couple. They were backpacking through Ecuador and specifically the Chugchilan area in 1994. They fell in love with the people and the scenery of this village. They did not want to leave! Someone asked them, why they don’t buy this land that was for sale. So, they went back to the US, worked several jobs, saved up every penny and bought the land. They returned to Chugchilan, built the Black Sheep Inn and have been open since 1996. Their vision (taken from their website is) “to provide a comfortable, educational experience for guests while contributing to and improving the local community and the natural environment. Our goal is to be a leader in environmental stability and ecotourism.” They are a couple that has so much energy and creativity. For example, in addition to running this entire Black Sheep Inn, Michelle teaches English and Computers in the local high school. Andres often repairs the town water system and phone lines. They have donated computers, phone lines, and a copy machine to the local school, health clinic and police station. They have subsidized school text books and extra teachers too. One of their most successful projects has been the establishment of a local Library/learning center stocked with Spanish language books and 8 computers. Children and teenagers are now interested in reading and have a place to conduct research. All this was possible by donations from Black Sheep Inn guests. They also have encouraged the community to open hostels, restaurants, become hiking/tourism guides. They hire all local folks for the running of the Inn.

The town of Chugchilan has one of the elementary schools for the parish. Although just 100 people live in the town, over 300 kids attend schools here, some walking over an hour each way. Still 41% of adults in the community cannot read. I think that Michelle and Andres description of the town is perfect. “Tourism is new to Chugchilan, starting when the Black Sheep Inn opened in 1996. Since then tourism is providing a necessary source of income for the community. While hiking in the area, you will see campesinos in the fields, caring for their crops, planting and harvesting. The main crops are barley, potatoes, fava beans, corn, squash and lupines (chocho beans). There are still many traditional adobe buildings and thatch huts called chosas. People are very poor and live simply and traditionally, yet they are happy and have an unusually strong sense of humor. The opportunity for cross cultural learning and exchanges is high, but please be sincere, humble and polite. If you can speak a few words of Spanish you can usually share in the tasks that the local people are doing, but please be careful as they work very hard and they are used to the thin air of high altitude.” (So have I convinced you yet to come! Check out their website at www.blacksheepinn.com)

Activities

So you’re here, relaxing in the yoga studio, eating great vegetarian meals, chatting with the guests, but you want to get out and explore the community. There are tons of hiking trails in the area. Yesterday, I did two hikes. One down a steep hill to this beautiful canyon area and the other up, up, up walking along a ridge with a panoramic view of the mountains on both sides. Today was Laguna Quilota hike. (more about that later)

Come here!

So, I know I’ve convinced you to come. Check out their website: blacksheepinn.com for more photos and more about this place. It’s really a find J I’m here for two more days, yay! so I’ll write more later.

Amazing photos to come...