Vilcabamba

It’s the November holiday. I’ve got three days off of work. Officially, the holiday is for the founding of Cuenca (an important city in the south of Ecuador). But unofficially, the holiday is for “Dia de los Difuntos” or Day of the Dead. This is when families get together, make a delicious purple corn drink called Colada Morada and visit their ancestors’ graves, usually with a picnic for themselves (and sometimes leaving food for the deceased). I’ve been planning my trip to Vilcabamba for a while now, and it’s a good thing! Everything is booked here in Ecuador-some of my friends couldn’t get a bus ticket or a hotel at the last minute. Especially, the beaches are so crowded this time of year.

I’m in Vilcabamba in the very, very south of Ecuador. It’s a quick 45 minute plane flight from Quito, then an hour drive from Loja, the provincial capital. Vilcabamba is known as the Valley of Longevity, because many Vilcabambenos live well into their 80’s and 90’s. The water is pure, the air is clean, the climate is spring-like all year round, the hills are not as steep as what I’m used to in Quito, more gradual rolling hills. Because of all these qualities, many American retirees have made Vilcabamba their home. The town center is a nice mix of older retired American ex-pats, hippies selling their jewelry and Ecuadorians enjoying the weather and strolls around the town square.

I’m staying at Madre Tierra, a hotel, resort, spa about 1KM outside of town.  It sits on a hill, overlooking the highway. Not the very best location, but there’s lots of plants around, tropical flowers, palm trees, etc. so it makes it feel more jungly than it actually is. The room I was assigned to is affectionately known as “The Hobbit Room.” You have to crouch down when entering…good thing I’m short because my head actually scrapes the ceiling! It’s very quaint and fine for a few days…but long term here I think I’d go crazy! The family that runs the place is from Washington State. A bunch of blonde kids are running around playing with the dog, laying in the hammock, mom and aunties prepare the food, dad and uncles keep the place in tip-top shape. (Kind of reminds me of Meryl Streep in Mama Mia). I’ve been traveling a lot around Ecuador, so I know what to compare this place to. The food is ok, not great. Breakfast is usually some homemade nutty bread, small portions of fruit and lots of eggs, usually overcooked and not very flavorful. The coffee is excellent, grown in Loja province, the fresh squeezed OJ is the perfect balance between tart and sweet. After a filling breakfast, guests can choose from lounging and reading in the many hammocks around the hostel, going for a relaxing (and cheap!) SPA treatment (massage, facials, etc. are around $20 per hour) or walking and hiking through Vilcabamba’s hills. There’s also horseback riding for exploring the back country. I’ve been doing a combination of all! Over all, Madre Tierra is a good value (just $15 per night including breakfast). But if/when I return to Vilcabamba, I’d probably not stay here again.

So yesterday, my last day, I wanted to try something I haven’t done since I was 10 years old out on a dude ranch in Colorado. Horseback riding! It’s a great way to see the countryside. We climbed up, up, up and had the most spectacular view of two valleys. Lush, green rolling hills, the volcano that looks like an Indian lying down (kind of like the view of the Front Range in CO, minus the snow and rocks). I’m glad I pushed myself and tried riding again, but now that I’m an adult, I’m realizing that I really do not like horseback riding! I’d rather see things on my own two feet (or two wheels!). (Now, I’m in good shape-a runner and all-but today I’m so sore I can barely walk! Guess I’m glad I saved this for my last day) I feel very unbalanced on a horse, especially when he takes off on a jog down a rocky hill!

Now, it’s back to Quito and reality. I’ve heard it said that you know you’re content in your life and your job if-when you return from a vacation you actually look forward to coming home. This is me! Vilcabamba was a wonderful escape for a few days, but I really am looking forward to being back in my own routines in Quito, having my own space to spread out (minus the head scraping in the Hobbit Room) and seeing my students.

PS-I'll post photos as soon as I have a fast internet connection