Sunday, November 20, 2011

Lots going on

I am staying busy as ever which is a good thing! One of the nice things about Academia Cotopaxi, is that Ecuadorian teachers really try and introduce the American/Foreign teachers to their country…lots of trips on the weekends. This Saturday, we journeyed up to Otavalo. Even though I’ve been there a million and ten times, it’s always fun to go again, especially with my colleagues, getting to know them outside of a school context. The woman I sat next to on the bus is an Ecuadorian, Spanish teacher at Academia Cotopaxi. She’s in her early 50’s and is a wonderful teacher! Patient, fun, energetic. And she has used a cane for awhile, I never knew why…

Well it turns out she used to be a tour guide (since she grew up in the US, she’s perfectly bilingual). She guided foreigners all over Ecuador. When she was 33, a young bride with 3 kids, the tour bus the she was guiding on crashed…17 people died and 13 were severely injured like her. She broke her back and is pretty much paralyzed on one side. She also had a life-saving heart surgery. She was bedridden for one year, absolutely immobile and suffered severe depression,. After the accident…she became a teacher and it saved her life. Now days, she swims every day and even though she walks with a visible limp using a cane, she gets around really well! She confided in me that recently her son had his first child (her granddaughter) and the baby was born with Down’s Syndrome. So, this lady, almost paralyzed on one side did a mile long charity walk for funding against Downs. Amazing.

So, it’s folks like this that make it really rewarding to teach where I do! On our way to Otavalo, we stopped in Cayambe (the town I lived in for my Peace Corps Training) for views of the snow covered volcano (which we passed many and it was a perfectly clear Andean day! Bright blue skies….I counted at least 5 snow covered peaks). Then we continued onto Parque Condor, a place founded by a Swiss couple to rescue large birds of prey. We saw condors, falcons, (even a bald eagle, donated by someone), plus a few really cute owls (one looked like Hedgewick in Harry Potter).

Then we made our way to the Saturday market in Otavalo. Always overwhelming with stall after stall of crafts (many looking the same!). We only spent a half hour there because…we had a boat ride/lunch waiting for us at Lago San Pablo, a beautiful lake. Lunch was a plato typico of Ecuadorian food…fritada which is marinated pork, empanadas, avocado, tomato and onion salad and fried potato pancakes. Yum! We arrived late to Quito because…

the annual pilgrimage to the Virgin of El Quinche was in full procession on the Pan American highway. Folks journey to the hamlet of El Quinche each year, mostly to repay the Virgin of El Quinch for a miracle she has granted them. They walk all through the night in order to arrive for the 6AM mass. Sometimes they go for healing as well. I saw women carrying sick babies, people limping (but this could have been because of blisters), even people with their pets. It’s about a 30 mile walk. Sometimes, along the sides of the roads, people give out free water, fruit, etc. But most times, the stalls on the side of the road are for business…the funniest stall I saw, next to the stalls selling water, food, ice cream, etc was the Band Aid/Orthopedic Shoe Insert stall. Also, there were random musicians trying to motivate the pilgrims along the side of the road. All in all, it was quite moving to see such a mass of people with such devotion. A fellow teacher on the bus said, Hey next year, let’s organize an Academia Cotopaxi group to walk with the pilgrims to El Quinche. While I think the physical challenge would be awesome, somehow I don’t think I’d do it…I have no devotion to the Virgin of El Quinche and would fell like a total imposter. We’ll see…

and speaking of embracing physical challenges, I had my first race at altitude this morning. The half marathon, mitad del mundo. I finished in 1:56 which I was really happy about, especially since it’s really hard to breathe so high up! The course was ok…lots of outs and backs, which can be a blessing and a curse. I did enjoy seeing the super fast runners booking it while I was going at my long run pace…but seeing them reminds me of how much further it is! The weather was perfect, chilly at the start, but warm enough to wear shorts and a tank top. All in all, I was impressed by the race organization, roads were shut down, there were plenty of water/Gatorade and food stops and it started and finished in Quito’s bull fighting ring…

bull fighting reminds me that Fiestas de Quito are coming up December 6. They actually start partying a few weeks before hand. These fiestas celebrate the founding of Quito with parades, dancing, drinking and bull fighting. The interesting thing is that recently the government decreed that bulls can no longer be killed in the bull fight (only afterwards). So the poor animals are tortured for sport then finally put out of their misery after the event. I’ve had several invitations to go to a bull fight. Despite how culturally appropriate it would be for me to go, I refuse. No way would I ever sit through the slow torture of an animal. It really, really makes me angry.

But just because I turn down the bull fight invitation, doesn’t mean there’s not other stuff I’ll participate in. One is a chiva which goes through Quito at night. Really a beautiful city, especially the historic district. The school rents a chiva, which is an open bus. You’re supposed to drink and dance while enjoying the night views. We’ll see! Also, Thanksgiving is coming up, and I’m not sure what I’ll make for our celebration. Last time I tried to make Ecua version of green bean casserole (frying the onions myself and substituting mushrooms for cream of mushroom soup) it was a disaster! Maybe I can make mashed potatoes…we sure have plenty of those!

Lots and lots going on! Happy Thanksgiving to you too! I am so thankful to have all of you supporting me from afar. I love you all.

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Soccer Mania



I’m sure you all know because you’ve seen the TV shows and movies, but soccer is HUGE here! It’s almost hard to desribe the feeling in the city when the national team plays. I live just a block from the Estadio Olimpico where the Ecuadorian soccer team plays. Right now, they’re in the midst of World Cup play offs for Brazil in a few years. Every time there’s a game, the whole city dresses up in yellow jerseys, the color of the Ecuadorian soccer team. So far, the Ecuadorian National Team has played against some other S. American teams like Venezuela and yesterday, Peru. I had to leave right after school to get to the bank before they close at 4PM. Traffic was horrible! I’d have probably gotten there faster walking….fans had been at the stadium since at least 7:15AM when I went past the stadium on my way to school! So, I took care of business at the bank and was walking home. Just walking through a stream of yellow jerseys is an amazing experience….they say that team sports really bring people together and that is certainly true in Quito! (Sure, everyone has their LOCAL team which they support and this is often a source of conflict, but when the NATIONAL team plays, you’d better bet, everyone pulls together and puts on the yellow shirt). Ecuador scored TWO goals as I was walking. Each time, I heard it first from the stadium, next from the honking horns on cars and third, everyone ran to the nearest store to crowd around a TV and see it. Pretty cool. Even though I’m not at all into soccer (or any sport for that matter!) it gave me a nice feeling of being part of something big. Next time, maybe I’ll wear the yellow!

Sunday, November 13, 2011

It's November...

Good Morning! School is going well-it was nice to have a long November holiday, but now it’s good to be back at work. Because I have such a small class (just 11) plus a full time aide, work is much less of a challenge than I’m used to! That’s not to say that my students don’t have things they’re working on! For example, most of them are second language learners so I’m using a ton of ESL strategies. Also, many of my students have been raised with loving parents and also with a loving nanny, maid and chofer. I’m having to use lots of patience when they leave stuff all over the place expecting someone to come behind them and clean it up. One of my new phrases here is, “We don’t have maids at school! Clean up your own mess!” I need to remind myself that they’re not being malicious, it’s just what they’re used to. That being said, it’s nice to be able to have a life outside of work! I’m feeling the need to get involved in the community…I’ll let you know how that goes! There’s a women’s shelter in Quito for single moms and their kids-I’m going to check out that place to see if I can help with after school activities or focus groups or something else like that! Also, perhaps Special Olympics, which is very active in Quito. I’ll keep you posted…and speaking of sports, I’ve got a half marathon coming up next weekend. Some girlfriends from school and I are running the race. The distance is no problem…it’s the altitude! I’m not expecting a PR, just a nice long run at over 10.000 feet. These days, I’m also just so grateful that I am able to run and mostly grateful for my health. It was scary last year thinking I was having a heart attack every day, horrible heart palpitations, sweating, feeling as though I had drunk 20 cups of coffee, insomnia.

Just being able to slow down and breathe is a blessing.

I’m trying to remind myself of that every day, not just on Thanksgiving…which, by the way, of course, is not celebrated in Ecuador, but rather at my school. We have a big Thanksgiving potluck, which will be nice. But I will miss the gathering in NY!

And then it’s Christmas! Where has the year gone? They’ve decorated the lobby of my apartment in Quito with nativities, Christmas tree, garlands with lights. The malls are playing Christmas music. I will need to adjust my thinking….because the weather is pretty much spring/fall like all year round, it just doesn’t seem like December is almost here! But I’m trying to get into the Spirit J

Love to you all, Rachel

Vilcabamba Photos and Reading Aloud






Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Grateful for my health


Most mornings I start my day with a run around Parque Carolina. It’s a 2.2 mile loop around the park. I’ve written before about this place…I love it because I can go as long or as short as I have time for, it’s well lit and there are tons of folks at all paces. Some out for a morning stroll, others training hard at race pace. Most times I’m in a good mood, but of course, we all go through running phases where we think…why am I doing this? Why does it hurt? Why do I feel like this?

Yesterday was sort of one of those days. I was just sort of slogging through a run, thinking more about the million and ten things I wanted to get done at school before the kids came. My pace was slow and I was feeling sorry for myself. Imagine!

Then a handicapped man with a CP-like affliction came loping towards me, hopping, stumbling, arms flailing. I almost asked him if he needed help before I realized that he too was out for a morning run. Enjoying the fresh, cool morning air, taking in the birds’ songs, breathing. As he flailed and stumbled and jogged I choked back tears. What in the world do I have to feel sorry for myself about?

Wow. What a good reminder of how fortunate I am to have my health, my life and even the ability to go out for a morning jog. I am grateful.

Sunday, November 6, 2011

Vilcabamba

It’s the November holiday. I’ve got three days off of work. Officially, the holiday is for the founding of Cuenca (an important city in the south of Ecuador). But unofficially, the holiday is for “Dia de los Difuntos” or Day of the Dead. This is when families get together, make a delicious purple corn drink called Colada Morada and visit their ancestors’ graves, usually with a picnic for themselves (and sometimes leaving food for the deceased). I’ve been planning my trip to Vilcabamba for a while now, and it’s a good thing! Everything is booked here in Ecuador-some of my friends couldn’t get a bus ticket or a hotel at the last minute. Especially, the beaches are so crowded this time of year.

I’m in Vilcabamba in the very, very south of Ecuador. It’s a quick 45 minute plane flight from Quito, then an hour drive from Loja, the provincial capital. Vilcabamba is known as the Valley of Longevity, because many Vilcabambenos live well into their 80’s and 90’s. The water is pure, the air is clean, the climate is spring-like all year round, the hills are not as steep as what I’m used to in Quito, more gradual rolling hills. Because of all these qualities, many American retirees have made Vilcabamba their home. The town center is a nice mix of older retired American ex-pats, hippies selling their jewelry and Ecuadorians enjoying the weather and strolls around the town square.

I’m staying at Madre Tierra, a hotel, resort, spa about 1KM outside of town.  It sits on a hill, overlooking the highway. Not the very best location, but there’s lots of plants around, tropical flowers, palm trees, etc. so it makes it feel more jungly than it actually is. The room I was assigned to is affectionately known as “The Hobbit Room.” You have to crouch down when entering…good thing I’m short because my head actually scrapes the ceiling! It’s very quaint and fine for a few days…but long term here I think I’d go crazy! The family that runs the place is from Washington State. A bunch of blonde kids are running around playing with the dog, laying in the hammock, mom and aunties prepare the food, dad and uncles keep the place in tip-top shape. (Kind of reminds me of Meryl Streep in Mama Mia). I’ve been traveling a lot around Ecuador, so I know what to compare this place to. The food is ok, not great. Breakfast is usually some homemade nutty bread, small portions of fruit and lots of eggs, usually overcooked and not very flavorful. The coffee is excellent, grown in Loja province, the fresh squeezed OJ is the perfect balance between tart and sweet. After a filling breakfast, guests can choose from lounging and reading in the many hammocks around the hostel, going for a relaxing (and cheap!) SPA treatment (massage, facials, etc. are around $20 per hour) or walking and hiking through Vilcabamba’s hills. There’s also horseback riding for exploring the back country. I’ve been doing a combination of all! Over all, Madre Tierra is a good value (just $15 per night including breakfast). But if/when I return to Vilcabamba, I’d probably not stay here again.

So yesterday, my last day, I wanted to try something I haven’t done since I was 10 years old out on a dude ranch in Colorado. Horseback riding! It’s a great way to see the countryside. We climbed up, up, up and had the most spectacular view of two valleys. Lush, green rolling hills, the volcano that looks like an Indian lying down (kind of like the view of the Front Range in CO, minus the snow and rocks). I’m glad I pushed myself and tried riding again, but now that I’m an adult, I’m realizing that I really do not like horseback riding! I’d rather see things on my own two feet (or two wheels!). (Now, I’m in good shape-a runner and all-but today I’m so sore I can barely walk! Guess I’m glad I saved this for my last day) I feel very unbalanced on a horse, especially when he takes off on a jog down a rocky hill!

Now, it’s back to Quito and reality. I’ve heard it said that you know you’re content in your life and your job if-when you return from a vacation you actually look forward to coming home. This is me! Vilcabamba was a wonderful escape for a few days, but I really am looking forward to being back in my own routines in Quito, having my own space to spread out (minus the head scraping in the Hobbit Room) and seeing my students.
PS-I'll post photos as soon as I have a fast internet connection